11052-HSS-R TTL Converter for Canon for NAUTICAM and HUGYFOT housings

I purchased the converter not so long ago, just before my departure for Malpelo dive-safari, and I didn’t have an opportunity to check it in calm conditions. So I had to test it during my very first check dive:). As many other old-school diving photographers, I always used manual mode of the flash, and at first, I felt suspicious about this converter, especially when the net is full of articles about weak points of the TTL mode for the underwater shooting. That’s why the first thing I did was studying out how to get back all the setting to the manual mode :).But to my surprise, I didn’t have to do it as the converter immediately demonstrated good qualities and in a couple of days, I forgot about my previous technique of shooting in a manual mode. Diving in Malpelo is the diving with large animals when you have to act quickly, otherwise, no one will wait for you. The process of shooting usually lasts just a few seconds, or the distance between you and the animal changes quickly and unpredictably, so you don’t have enough time for changing and adjusting the power of the flash. This problem has almost gone when using this converter, the amount of light is regulated on its own and precisely enough. The photographer, in this case, has more time to focus on the composition of the picture or adjust the position of the flashes themselves. I didn’t have an opportunity to check the converter in difficult exposure situations - with the back light or inside the cave, but fortunately, the possibility of switching to manual mode can solve all these problems, in case TTL results won’t be fine. The special advantage is the possibility to use the optical synchronisation with the flashes. Previously, I used only the electric cables. Now you can quickly take off one or two flashes straight after the dive even being in the water and hand them over to a boat, without worrying about wetting the connector. Then proceed with shooting the splits. And afterwards put on flashes on the wet camera again for the second dive. All these are difficult things to do when you have to deal with electric cables. The flash power correction can be set either manually on the flashes themselves or on the camera (more detailed and effective setting). I can recommend setting Flash Exposure Compensation to one of the straight access buttons, to use it without opening the menu. This thing will also simplify the work. I noticed that with the converter the flash batteries are running down faster during their more intensive use. Now I get more shots in a series when the flash failed as it needs more time to recharge. When working in a manual mode, I would set a lower flash power for shooting the series, and TTL-converter doesn’t know that I’m going to take several pictures in a row and honestly tries to estimate the exposure for every single shot. And that’s why I have to hold longer interval between shots in a series. One of the solutions can probably be a deeper negative correction of the flash before starting the series. On the whole, I am contented with the converter and that a new life of my underwater photography began. As if in my high-rise block where I used to stairs a lift was finally installed. Camera Canon 5d4, flashes Inon z240.